Monday 18 July 2022

Yes, we love Napoli

Today is our last day in Naples and despite the predicted 35 degrees we aimed to set out early to complete the last things on our list. If we had longer there are still many things we would like to see.

Today's pastry choice was another Naples speciality, a faccia giallo. It is a San Gennaro tribute shaped like a jewelled mitre.


The Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo was our first stop. A church under scaffolding at the front  opened up to reveal the most amazing space inside. It is huge, and as they say on Escape to the Country, it is light and airy. It is baroque (but not gold) and every space has marble, paintings and all manner of decoration. It had many intriguing features and is obviously an active local church for many.



By now it was 32 degrees so time for a cooler. I have been asked, what is Granita? It is finely crushed ice infused with fruit flavours, most commonly lemon. The machines sit at the front doors of bars and cafes to tempt you in. Australians, think slushies, only better!


On to the Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara which we visited on day one, but this time we visited the cloisters which are adorned with frescoes and hand painted majolica tiles from the 17th century. This was a monastery complex which included the Basilica of Santa Chiara that was severely bombed during WWII. Also included in the visit is a museum with information on the development of the artistic features, the restoration work after the incendiary bombings, archaelogical remains of baths and much more. We spent two hours there; good value for our €4.50 each seniors entry ticket.














The Presepio or Nativity Scene was invented in Italy, an idea developed by Saint Francis in 1223. They are still very popular and in Italy they are often set within the village or local situation.

We have seen several people creating these scenes using cork bark, paper mache and timber. The scenes are dressed with people doing the tasks of the area, farmers, artists, pizza makers. There are lots of shops where you can buy these small additions for your presepio.

This very large example was behind glass in the museum.

It was past lunch time so off to find some street food. Not difficult here where street food is very much part of the culture. We have tried several different things and today we went for cuoppo. Served in a cone of paper with a skewer, there were six varieties of lighly fried tasty bites made up with macaroni, semolina, rice and additions including cheese, vegetables and herbs. Mini arancini type bites of deliciousness.



Fed and watered, we set off on foot once more for the market at Porta Nolana but we were too late by the time we got there. There were a few stalls still, but we did cover another new area so all was not lost.

Sadly it was time to return to our home of the last eight days and pack our cases.

Then one last time living the noise and vibrancy of Naples, pizza on our terrace.


I started by quoting that you either love Naples or hate it. We love it! 

Kel came back from doing a drinks run to the mini mart with a highlight that sums up this city. The traffic is chaotic, you risk your life every time you cross a street yet he had just seen an elderly man driving his mobility scooter down the middle of the road, casually smoking a cigarette.

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