Lonely Planet describes Naples as raw, high octane energy ... soul stirring ... spontaneous and with the most intoxicating street life. In one day we have begun to see this and understand the magnetic pull this city has on many people.
Our first task today was to check out the travel plans for getting us to the ferry terminal tomorrow. Good idea! Basically all that seemed good on the internet did not go to plan this morning, so we are scrapping the Metro and walking. We did however see a lot of the seafront area and life in general on foot. In fact, we also gave the all day Metro ticket a jolly good work-out.
But first, breakfast taken Italian style at Antica Pasticceria Carratura (located at Porta Capuana since 1837). This pastry and cake shop has a plaque recognising its historic significance in the production and protection of the sfogliatella.
Toledo Metro station is worth a visit for its clever use of tiles and light to produce quite a spectacular sensation. Many of the Metro stations have an art instalation.
By now we were getting quite hot so it was time to have a granita. Our experience is that once you are south of Rome granita becomes more popular than gelato. Nothing quite matches a lemon granita when the temperature is over 30c. It was so good I almost forgot to take a photo!
The Centro Storico of Naples is designated by UNESCO as an area of significance and to be protected. We came into the historic centre at the Basilica of Santa Chiara. This cleverly deceptive church was bombed during WWII so what we see now is a 20th century recreation of the C14th church. It was the stained glass windows that tipped me off that this building had suffered war damage.
What a special area this is! A photographer's dream, a foodies delight, a people watching heaven, historic features galore ... you could just spend your time in Centro Storico and be thrilled with your visit to Naples.
Street food is part of the culture here - delicious, cheap and safe. For lunch we shared this stuffed and fried pizza which was filled with tomato, cheese , meat and prosciutto. Now here is another thing I like about Naples ... it is not 'brutta' to eat food in the street!
After a slow meander down Spaccanapoli (the street that splits the city) we arrived at the Duomo. It was closed however we took a second granita break before getting back onto the Metro and going to Vanvitelli, a quiet suburb which appealed to us.
After a short walk we arrived at Castel Sant Elmo, and what a view. Mount Vesuviuscan be seen on the right.
At the entrance gate to the castel they were offering half price for EU seniors. Kel asked what about old Australians?... and the man said 'Half price for everyone today.'
The Castel is in fact a medieval fortress in excellent condition. It was built with an unique and controversial design which has certainly worked.
We had walked a long way today so we had earned our first Aperol Spritz for this trip. It was perfetto! We stayed on for dinner at Volmero before riding back to Centrale on the train.
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