Scoura - Kasbah Amridil and the Oasis

After a big day yesterday we had a late start with breafast by the pool at 9 am. This family certainly doesn't want anyone to go away hungry. As a Berber family we are eating the foods typically eaten by these people. Delicious!

But first, a peep over the rampart above the outdoor eating area.

The front view of Dar Panorama which is built higher up than most other homes and does give a great view.

On the way out to the sealed road we passed this group of men building a fence. They dig the soil from their block to create the mud which, since the earthquake,  has to have some cement or wiring to give the walls more strength if they are building a house. The earth is rammed in a form to create very large bricks then set out to dry for two weeks. On a base of round rocks, these bricks are stacked to create thick walls.

To get a plot here and to be able to build a house you must commit to the Green Maroc policy, which means being prepared to work for the improvement of the land and planting trees and crops.

This photo shows a drip system and small tree plantings. Poly pipe is the main means of getting water to the plants, and in some places they flood irrigate small areas once a fortnight. Solar power is used to pump the water. The loss rate for plants seems quite high.

It was only a short drive to Kasbah Amridil, a kasbah in three parts as many generations of family have lived here.  The right hand portion is 17th century and the far left is from the last 40 years. It is a living museum with rooms and artifacts dating back 300 years.

Our local guide today was Michi and he gave us lots of information on Berber life in the oasis area.  We are within a 55 sq. km oasis which is fed by two seasonal rivers and snow. This allows some vegetation to grow and survive.

The butter making 'machine' pictured below caught our attention. It has some pendulum motion but a woman would have to keep it moving enough for butter to form. The ovens were also interesting as the fire is in the right side and the bread is placed on the hot rocks on the left. The bread does not sit on charcoal.

Views from the upper floor of the kasbah, the section where the owners lived. 

After a rest stop it was on to the bus and off to see some of the oasis and how the water system can work.

The date palms can self polinate but to be guaranteed success the farmers like to have the trees hand polinated by men who climb the trees and dust the flowers from the female tree onto the male tree.

Crops such as wheat, barley and alfalfa are grown now but in the summer corn, aubergines and tomatoes are grown. Olives, pomegranates and dates are more self sufficient.

Back to Dar Panorama for another wonderful meal and some rest time before our traditional calligraphy workshop.

Our local artisan teacher Salah, tried to teach us some Arabic pronunciation but it seemed most of us were a lost cause. He then wrote our names in traditional Arabic and explained the grammar needed to produce those names. Initially quite stressful but by the end we agreed the class was quite rewarding.

We had hoped for a good sunset this evening however it was not to be. Views from the roof top.

Soup, couscous with vegetables, fresh fruit and mint tea. We have been spoilt.

A mild day and no new cases to report. 

 

Marrakech to Skoura

Breakfast at 6.30 am, not part of my vocabulary, but essential today as we had a big day ahead. This bright plate of tomato and cheese set a happy note.

We left Marrakech and headed for the High Atlas Mountains. What could have been a long dull trip was actually totally enthralling. The scenery was amazing, the geological features were spectacular and the many stops made for a great day.

It was another occasion of too many photos to choose from so here is a random selection, all taken from a moving bus.

At the Tichka Pass we were able to have a photo stop.  We were at 2260 metres above sea level, and what a view. The air was so clear and crisp.

We had been travelling through Berber country most of the day and as we climbed higher we saw how these indigenous people have survived in this rough terrain. On their small plots of land and very humble homes they continue to work hard in a simple subsistance life. We just could not imagine how they survive such a tough life in the Atlas Mountains in winter.

The fortified Berber village or 'ksar' of Ait Ben Haddou sits amidst the barren landscape like a jewel. It is a traditional mud brick village and a fine example of the architecture of southern Morocco. It is UNESCO World Heritage listed.

We were able to visit the village and also go into one of the homes where we were welcomed with mint tea. It was a bit of a climb but well worth it.

Morocco is a very popular place for filming movies and they have two big studios in the Ouarzazate region. We passed both studios, then later stopped for lunch at  Le Berbere Palace where they have a big collection of film set pieces from some of the movies made there. Of note to me were Gladiator and Asterix & Obelisk.

Lunch in a lovely garden setting at Le Berbere Palace revived us.

Ouarzazate is a big modern city where most of the population is employed in one way or another through the film industry.

Leaving  the city we continued on to our traditional guest house or riad Dar Panorama. We were warmly welcomed by Mr. Aziz and his family and shown to our delightful rooms in their big house. 

A riad is a traditional Moroccan house or palace with an indoor garden or courtyard and fully enclosed. They are usually located within the old city medina walls. As we are right out in the country this guest house differs a little. This photo taken by Jen from their bedroom balcony gives an overview of where we are staying.

But first our driver negotiated an unsealed road to get us there.

Our welcome included traditional mint tea, fresh dates and cake. Although usually served sweet, we have enjoyed it sweet, mildly sweet and sugarless. It certainly is refreshing.

Our room is a riot of colour with quirky features and a view. Note the collection of floor rugs and little table.

Being a riad or guest house they are unable to serve alcohol so we had to bring our own. Drinks were enjoyed in the courtyard before we went to dinner in the dining room.

For dinner we were served a soup made with rice, salad greens and potato. The chicken and vegetable tagine was superb, the best we have tasted, and we finished with a large bowl of fruit.

A spectacular day with the temperature in the low 20s ... and no new COVID cases.

I have had several reports back that people are unable to write comments. Unfortunately I do not know the answer as I cannot write on a friend's Blog. You can do a search for How to ... but it did not solve it for me.

I am really pleased to hear that so many are enjoying our trip vicariously. 

Morocco should be on your trip list if you have one.