Marrakech, the Red City - Gardens, a Palace, a Tomb and much more

It was an early start today so breakfast in the pool garden was a little cool for me.

Our hotel, the Opera Plaza is painted the colour of Marrakech, terracotta or the colour of the soil here. In the main the variation is just the degree of fade.

The Garden Marjorelle is 100 years old this year and covers 9000 m. sq. The French colonised Morocco in 1920 and four years later Jacques Marjorelle, a French painter and designer began this striking garden. It was developed and a house built there over a forty year period. The house in particular has Art Deco and Moorish influences.

In 1980 Yves St. Laurent and  Pierre Bergé, who first came to Morocco in 1966 purchased Jardin Marjorelle to save it from developers.  St. Laurent died in 1980 and his ashes were scattered in the garden. Bergé died in 2018 and there is a monument to both creative men in Jardin Marjorelle. St. Laurent donated the property to the city.

A really beautiful hour or more wandering the garden.

Next stop was  the Royal Palace, but first an interesting walk to get there. The Koutoubia Mosque, a group photo (photo of a photo!), an interesting means of transporting goods in the narrow streets of the medina, a sign warning motor bike riders to be aware that a school is nearby and another means of transporting goods.

Pictured with the group are our tour leader Driss,  our local guide Ali and five Berber water carriers.

The Bahai Palace was built between1866 and 1867 by Si Moussa, a former slave who rose to Grand Visir of the Sultan. It is unusually set inside the medina. It housed the Resident General during the French Protectorate era and is now considered one of the best preserved historic sites in Marrakesh.

Again, much intricate decoration - soft plaster carved panels with symbols of the three faiths, cedar wood ceilings, tiling and detailed painting.

Our local guide Ali, who also had a great sense of humour. A joke from him, paraphrased. Q: Did you know Morocco has a new religion? A: It's called Instagram. The young people practice it all day.

Masks for all at present (no new cases today :) 

A group photo taken by Ali to show us how well he framed it.

              

On the walk to our next appointment we were able to see storks nesting up on a chimney. They fly south for the winter and are known to return to the same nests in Spain or France.

The 16th century monument site of the Saadian Tombs was our next location. The tombs are an historic royal necropolis on the side of the Kasbah Mosque. Of Moorish design, they are also highly decorated with intricate carvings and colourful tiles.

We were told that these tombs were only found in 1917, that the graves never have names on them and that the people were buried on their right sides.

We were starting to flag somewhat by now (27 degrees) however a visit to Herboristerie Bab Agnaou pepped us up a bit. Maybe it was his version of Vicks vapourub in the nostrils or one of the oils or creams applied to various parts. Moroccans use herbal and spice remedies, especially as a first action and this qualified man told us he sends his products all over the world.

Last call was another cooperative type of shop, three floors full, of craft items made mostly by women. The idea being that women are empowered by being able to make money from selling their crafts. The Berber carpets were beautiful but where would I use one.

I did have a little carpet tying lesson from one of the women working there.

Lunch at 4 pm, drinks at 6 pm. Certainly not the English timing we are used to. Finished the night with Nutella and banana crepes at 8.30 pm.

Essaouira to Marrakech

 The cat population in Essaouira iHome s quite large, about 3000, and with tourists cats are often associated with rabies. Not so with the Essaouira people, who treat cats with a similar kindly attitude as they treat all people. The cats are not domesticated but were appreciated as rat and mouse catchers in the days of the large shipping port. Many people cut a cat hole in their door so the cats could enter, however this led to more rats and mice entering too, so now we can see many sealed up cat holes.

The cats are fed with dry food in bowls or heaps in the street, and many frequent the port area where the fishermen are kind to them. Rashid told us that there is a system started by English people who live there where cats are de-sexed, and a missing tip to the ear indicates that the cat has been fixed.

                                                                                                                 Cat photos by Margot

With the many hours we spent crushed amongst frenzied crowds at Dubai and Casablanca airports it was inevitable that COVID would catch us. We have now been in Morocco five days and of our seventeen Travellers six now have COVID and another six have had 'upset tums'. Our wonderful tour guide has been very kind in sourcing more masks, anti virals and other needs. All are soldiering on, the sickies sit at the back of the bus and those expecting the inevitable are sitting to the front. Driss says that in his vast experience it is just like a cold so don't worry!

Today we left the Atlantic coast and travelled inland. Morocco is suffering a six year drought and the land we saw this morning was very dry. Small Berber villages appeared every so often otherwise the country was pretty much barren.

Our morning break certainly felt like an oasis, located in the middle of nowhere yet set in a green and pretty garden space. It had take-away style food as well as chicken tagines cooked outdoors, lots of garden seating, an excellent play area for children and very clean toilets (5 - 10 dirham entry)

What charmed us were the Berber tent-like relaxing areas. They were all hand made and so beautiful.

Nearer to Marrakech we passes argan plantations and later watermelon and melon plantings.

Housing in one of the larger towns. I would like to be able to photograph some of the rural dwellings but of course I only see them from the coach. They range from shanties to quite large structures made from hand made mud bricks or concrete ones. Very many seem to be not completed nor occupied. More than roof tax I'm thinking.

Nearing Marrakech I saw this wall art on the end of a sporting complex.

Marrakech is known as the pink or red city, for obvious reason. Its appearance is very French with wide boulevards, grand buildings and French style restaurants. The addition of tall palm trees makes a stunning impression.

This is the Royal Opera House, opposite our hotel.

The view from our fourth floor balcony, from which we enjoyed real French-style baguette with emmental cheese for lunch.

In the evening we went to Marrakech's main square Jemaa el - Fnaa. As our info sheet says 'it is a wondrous mix of food, music and entertainment [which gives] a taste of this lively city.' The music was the dominant featurefor us, lots of strings and drum beats ... very tribal. It was just after sunset when we arrrived and it was amazing, but when we came out of the restaurant and it was dark...wow!

Our typical Moroccan dinner at Al Baraka provided food, music and entertainment too. We ate bread and a variety of 'salads' (grated carrot in rose water was a favourite), lamb with cous cous, vegetables and chick peas and two sauces, followed by oranges slices with rose water and dates and mini pancakes.

Home to bed in preparation for a big day of walking tomorrow.