San Gennaro, the Patron Saint of Naples and another Caravaggio

San Gennaro is the Patron Saint of Naples and has been very highly admired for over 1700 years. It is said that a high percentage of boys born in Naples are still given the name Gennaro.

Gennaro was a bishop who was martyred in 305 AD and declared a saint. He was so highly respected by people all over the world that he was, many years after death, given amazingly expensive art works and jewellery. This was especially so when the new Chapel of San Gennaro was built at the Duomo in 1526.

The miracle of San Gennaro is the liquifaction of the blood of the saint that happens three times a year. But he is credited with saving the people of Naples from hunger, plague, war and the fire of Vesuvius.

Our apartment manager told us we must visit the Chapel and see the Treasures 'because this tells you about us, the people of Naples. He is very important to us and our city.'

What struck me first about this highly decorative chapel was the use of silver, especially in the half body busts of Gennaro and the many other minor saints of Naples.

 

The altar frontal is an amazing diorama in silver, from  a distance it looks magnificent so I can just imagine what it is like up close. Behind the altar and kept under lock and four keys are the two phials of blood of San Gennaro.

The reliquary bust of San Gennaro in the Chapel and below, Sant' Emidio who is another of the 52 patron saints of Naples. Emidio was a bishop and martyr and this bust is in the Museum of Treasures at the Cathedral. The artistry and craftsmanship in these busts is beyond belief. To study them up close leaves me in absolute awe.

A painting of San Gennaro in the Treasury.

The Treasure of San Gennaro is composed of art works and donations collected over seven centuries of Popes, Kings, Emperors, famous and ordinary people. This necklace is placed on the bust on processional occasions and is made up from a great collection of jewels given to the chapel over time. Each segment tells a story of devotion and faith.

 

A master goldsmith created this mitre for the reliquary bust of San Gennaro from a great collection of jewels given by followers. Photos show the front, the back and close up.

 

This reliquary has a flip lid on top of the head which can hold the bones from his skull.

This stunning collection of silver & silversmithing, jewellery and art is still together as possibly the greatest collection of 'treasure' in the world due to never having sold off any to finance wars. This is a fact of which they are very proud.

As you can imagine, we spent a lot of time there, aided by individual phone guided tour notes.

Next stop was Pio Monte della Miseracordia where they have a Caravaggio painting in their chapel. It is entitled 'The Seven Acts of Mercy' and true to his style it is very dark. It is however an interesting interpretation.

Across the way they have a picture gallery with a good collection of older art and 

collectables. We are meeting new artists in the south and Francesco di Mura attracted my attention. He is a late baroque period painter (1696-1782)

Gelato time then home for some recovery time. From winter in Australia to 33 degrees  in the city of Naples is a bit challenging

Out we went again at 6 pm, on to the Metro (experts now!) and off at Municipio where we walked past Castel Nuovo ...

and into Piazza Plebiscito. This is an elegant area with the Royal Palace, the Opera, the Galleria and even a fountain with water!

Following the crowd we came to the waterfront with Vesuvius standing out not so far away. Many restaurants are along this promenade so we stopped for an Aperol Spritz, ended up having pizza and came home on the Metro in the dark.

Buona notte!

P.S.

A piece of COVID street art (not my photo). San Gennaro continuing to care for Naples.