Monday 22 August 2022

To Modena by Train

We were early for breakfast this morning but our usual cornetti were all gone. Being keen to try new things we chose these black ones. We can report that they had no taste other than the sugar on top! Mr Google has informed me that they have activated charcoal in them, and that some people think that it aids digestion.


A 30 minute ride on the clean, modern, smooth and cheap train and we were in Modena, another beautiful city with World Heritage listing for its very special Medieval features. The usual walk from the station to the Centro, we were walking on cobbled paths and rounded the corner to this ... wow again! As we walked a little further we realised this was only a small part of the Duomo, dating from 1099 and consecrated in 1184.


It is so big that it is very difficult to fit it in one photo.




Along the side facing Piazza Grande was this entrance which took us in near the front of the cathedral. Later we discovered the front door is actually around the other end in another piazza.


I know I use the words amazing, incredible, unbelievable a lot, but what can you say about this ancient building? Phenomenal.

The photo below is the high altar, reached by steep stairs on either side, below that is the part which is used regularly for services and below that is a large crypt.This place is enormous.



One of a set of portraits made from wood inlays.


Too much to explain here so I will just post a few photos to give an overview. 








So many photos, so little time and space.


Back outside we looked further at Piazza Grande and its rock cobbled surface. This rock surface is round rocks, often with weeds growing between them, and very hard on the feet. 
As Kel said, you feel like you are in a movie set all the time in these towns.

The Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) has a great clock tower and portici along the front. There are some other porticos here too.




The Albinelli Indoor Market was full of local foods, even though many of the stalls were closed for their annual holiday. Cheeses, hams and cured meats, bread and such a range of fruit and vegetables all activated the taste buds.



There was also a very popular restaurant, so popular that you stand and wait until a space becomes available. After a short wait we got a perch on high stools and we very pleased we did.



Kel's lunch was cheese and spinach tortelli with crispy prosciuto.

Mine was a local speciality, tortellini with parmesan cream and balsamic.


Time for some more walking. A pretty portico, highly decorative houses and Osteria Francescana, one of the top restaurants in the world.




Palazzo Ducale, constructed in 1634, housed the Este Court for two centuries and is now the headquarters of the Italian Military Academy.


Acetaia Balsamico, balsamic vinegar, is aged in barrels like port.



Next stop was the Opera House to see the statue of Luciano Pavarotti. His house is open to view but is some kilometres out of town. Modena has a strong history in opera and has important singing and music schools.


Nearby were the usual electric scooters left on the paths and Kel had the urge to demonstrate how you ride one. It seems it is essential to have your mobile phone pressed to your ear or out in front so only one hand is available for steering.


We always like to visit parks and gardens, although public gardens in Italy are not what we usually associate with gardens. This one is the Giardino Ducale Estense and the building, the Palazzina,  was a summer house of the Este family but now houses exhibitions.



Same colour as the statue (giggle, giggle)

Our last stop was just a peep at a little of Motor Valley. This town and surrounding area is noted for high class, high speed motor cars. Ferrari, Maserati and Pagani are all located here, with museums, show rooms and factories.

This museum is in the house where Enzo Ferrari was born in 1898. As well as the house there is an addition (see yellow) that is shaped like the hood of a racing car. Further out of town is another Ferrari museum which looks at the history of their F1 and sports cars.






The Maserati Factory and Showroom is only a short distance from the Ferrari Museum. This photo was taken outside the 'best restaurant in the world' and reflections are in the hood of the Maserati.


Back home on the train and we feel we had a very good overview of this heritage listed city of Modena (population 190,000). Visiting the Centro Storico or historic centre means you see the old parts of towns without the 'modern' populated and sometimes industrial parts of cities this big. Protecting the heritage of Italy is vitally important to them and these historic centres have very limited access for cars and many strict rules about things such as alterations to buildings, paint colours and similar visual and authentic aspects.






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