Monday 22 August 2022

A day trip to Ferrara

 Another clean, quiet and comfortable train ride, this time to Ferrara, and yet another UNESCO World Heritage Listed city. With a population of 133,000 the medieval walls keep the old city separated from the modern. These walls  have historic value and now an environmental place in the life of the people of Ferrara.

Arriving in Piazza Municipio we immediately noticed the paving, not round cobbles but red brick herringbone design. Stunning buildings everywhere, we didn't know where to look. Then we passed through an arched gate and we were in the largest piazza, or three joined together. The Cathedral was straight ahead, covered in scaffolding and bearing a sign saying it was being restored and would be open at the end of 2020. Another victim of COVID as it is still not open.

Entry into the Palazzo Este in the Ducal Courtyard and the Grand Staircase.



The marble tower, below, marks the other end of the cathedral.


The Ducal Residence of the Este family in the 16th century, it is now the Palazzo Municipale or Town Hall.


This street (below), via Volte, is one to visit because it has not changed much since the Middle Ages. Very photogenic.


The Cloister at the Diocesan Museum, nice light.

Sitting having lunch in Piazza Trento Trieste gave us the chance to look closely at the buildings abutting the cathedral. Fascinating in their construction and age. The ground level is very old with ancient wooden beams forming the porticoes. The next level up has seen many changes in window shape and placement, and the top level with all the columns shows that not all are uniform; some are quite decorative.

The front of the Cathedral showing the facade and the interesting construction along the side.

From Piazza Trento Trieste to Piazza Cattedrale and on to Corso Martiri della Libertà, all one space, and you are looking at a moated medieval castle in the centre of town! This is Castello Estense. Built in 1385 as a defence for the nobility from the citizens, it is a square structure with four defensive corners built on to the Este Palazzo.




The drawbridges, one for pedestrians and one for larger movements, were interesting in their construction. Metal rod and link chains and a windlass and counterweights allowed the bridges to be raised by just a few men.


Quick! Wind up the drawbridge, there are two dodgey looking characters on it!
                               

Inside the fortress there was an sculpture exhibition in metal entitled 'Le donne, i cavallier, l'arme, gli amori' by Sara Bolzani and Nicolo Zamboni. An incredible amount of work, like patchwork in metal, but pretty scary. (I took a photo of one that didn't scare me)



Then we set off on a long walk in the 33 degree heat.  Corso Ercole 1 d' Este is a grand street with very grand houses, palazzi galore. This was specially planned when Ercole  Este decided to extend the town boundaries.

Palazzo dei Diamanti is a Renaissance palace and former home of the Este family, it is now the National Art Gallery of Ferrara.


Its grand door can be seen by Kel's indication of height.

The intersection where these palazzi stand was the boundary of the extension of the city as planned by Ercolo d' Este.

Another amazing doorway on the opposite corner - it looks like small children are about to jump.

We reached Parco Massari so wandered through, saw a couple of my favourite Italians (Verdi and Dante) and even found toilets. Quite a nice green park, they are having a busking festival here  this week.



At the next intersection we stopped for an Aperol Spritz and a cool down before taking a laneway into the country. Instant transformation.


This brought us out onto the remains of the fortified walls of Ferrara. Dating from 7th century to the Renaissance, these walls had all the defences needed - bastions, towers and gates, as well as very thick walls.

Varying degrees of the wall remain but it does still circle the city for nine kilometres. There are now tracks suitable for riding, walking and exercising, running on or beside the wall. Flora and fauna species have returned to the city as it is a protected environment now.







This is the remains of the Torrione del Barca,  a strategic tower in the defensive walls and part of the World Heritage Listing. We walked possibly three kilometres around the wall until we came to the railway station.

Only a short wait for our train and we were back in Bologna by 6 pm. Another amazing day of history, exercise and new discoveries.




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