Pitigliano, a town built on tufa

 Pitigliano is an old town perched on the cliff of tufa rock in the Maremma region of Tuscany. Of medieval design, it is full of narrow alleys and small squares, and because tufa was easy to carve out it has lots of underground passages and rooms.

It took us 1 hour 20 minutes to get there from Città della Pieve, along picturesque country roads, and we arrived to a huge crowd of people. It was market day, as well as summer holidays. We eventually found a parking spot a long way from the historic centre.

One of the features of Pitigliano is the Medici Aqueduct which runs along one side.

Cute lanes with lots of steps call out to be photographed.

Pitigliano has been known as 'Little Jerusalem' since the 15th century when Jewish families settled here. They were supported by the Orsini counts, a powerful ruling family.

The synagogue was built in 1598. In the early 1600s Pitigliano was added to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Jewish people did not have the support of the Medici. The Medici instituted the Ghetto in 1622. The Jewish people were restricted to living in the one small area in a lesser standard of homes. In the 19th century about a quarter of the population was Jewish. It wasn't until the 1861 Unification of Italy that Jews were emancipated. Many left for the cities but some stayed on.

In the 1960s the synagogue finally collapsed (down the hill) and today few Jews live in Pitigliano. 

We visited The Little Jerusalem; the rebuilt synagogue and the old Jewish Quarter where they re-settled and made use of the existing excavated spaces.

The unleavened bread was mixed in this 'machine' before being formed on the slab.

The tanning and dyeing works.

The Kosher Butchery where the meat was prepared to Kosher regulations.

The area for Ritual Bathing was also well explained.

The Kosher cellars where the wine was made and stored.

At a Jewish shop nearby I bought a sfratto, a stick shaped biscuit filled with walnuts, honey and spices, the dough wrapped around the filling. I have't tried it yet.

Walking on down via Zuccarelli we came to the Church of San Rocco. It was his patronal festival and all was decorated for the celebration which began at 9 pm.

We walked right to the end of the town then back up via Roma, past the Cathedral and some tourist shops and bars which were doing a roaring lunch trade.

Easy to see that this was a butcher shop.

After a sandwich for lunch we returned to the far end of the town to find some of Le Vie Cave - the Excavated Roads. These amazing roads were cut into the tufa rock by the Etruscans B.C. Usually about 15 metres deep and three metres wide, these subterranean roads zig zagged down the hills, often ending in a necropolis. Some contained tombs.

Over time other civilizations have adapted them for their own uses so many have rooms burrowed out of the tufa.

It was quite strange walking along these excavated roads, knowing how old they were and how many different peoples had walked this way too.

Climbing back up the slope we came to the fortified walls and quite a climb more up the steps. You can see the Etruscan parts of the wall and gate by its more yellow colour and, if nearer, the larger size of blocks used for building.

So that was another fascinating day, there is always more you can learn in Italy.

We returned home mostly on different roads but just as winding and just as beautiful.

On our last visit to Italy we noticed that foreign ideas were starting to have an impact on food and eating habits. We had noted 'hamburgerias' were opening and frites (fried potatoes)  were appearing on  menus. Last night the restaurants around us were all closed but Kel found one place open with take-away food. 

Called a foccaccia, it was absolutely delicious and an absolutely different slant on the burger. The foccaccia bun was made fresh from the dough and inside was a meat pattie made from spicey pork sausage, lots of lightly smoked cheese and lightly pickled asparagus.

I can't guarantee that I have described the contents correctly but I can guarantee that it was incredibly delicious and very filling.