Montone and Castel Rigone - stunning hilltop villages and views that go forever

Yesterday was cool and there were thunderstorms and we stayed home, but we couldn't waste two days so today we took some scenic and winding back roads to go to Montone, past Umbertide. We drove in and out of Umbria and Tuscany, along fertile valleys and over pretty woodland mountains. The views at every turn were amazing.

These huge pumpkins were worth finding a stopping spot. There are lots of these around and we wonder what you could possibly do with so much pumpkin.

Most of the crops have been harvested, the corn is currenly being stripped, but there were many fields of tobacco in the valley.

This market garden was harvesting zucchini flowers to be used in restaurants especially, stuffed and lightly deep fried.

We arrived in Montone, a fortified walled mediaeval village with character in bucketloads. This was our first view at the entrance through Porta del Verziere.

Just inside the gate was a restaurant of the same name with a panoramic terrace. We are easily swayed by great outdoor eating spaces so in we went. What a good move that was! 

Lots of character, stunning views that can't be captured by the camera, friendly service and excellent food.

Ristorante Taverna del Verziere serves food ' typical of the area'  so we enjoyed papardelle pasta with wild boar sauce and tagliarini pasta with truffles. I love tartufo!! - truffles.

A half bottle of Rosso di Montepulciano and we should have been satisfied ... but then the friendly young chef mentioned dolce.

 So once again we had to be like Montalbano and walk it off!

These photos were taken in the Collegiata Church in Montone. They all involved looking very high up near the ceiling.

After almost three hours in Montone we took some more back roads and headed over a range (and the Tiber/Tevere river) to Castel Rigone.

Castel Rigone is perched on a hilltop, a fortified village since 1297. It is situated on the highest hill overlooking Lake Trasimeno so it has amazing views. It's not very big so it was quiet but the dominant feature is the Sanctuary of Maria Ss dei Miracoli. Built in 1492 this huge church was another church built to house the great number of pilgrims who wished to visit, and also to be a fitting tribute to the apparition of Mary as seen in the village in 1490.

Like the church in Montone, there was some very good old art, in this case from the Siennese school, the Umbrian school and Florentine artists.

This is the original fresco of the Madonna dei Miracoli which was been built into a small chapel in tbe 16th century.

Recent restoration work found the frescoes either side on the altar fresco by Caporali and pupils. One of the side frescoes is dated 1519 but the artist is unknown.

We could see the ominous clouds from Castel Rigone and when we arrived home it had been poured with rain in Panicale where as I has shed the scarf and enjoyed some sunshine in Montone and Castel Rigone.

Another wonderful day etched in our memory.