Corteo Storico in Paciano

Summer is certainly Festa season in Umbria! Last night we went to Paciano which is just three kilometre over the ridge from Panicale. It's a small village with narrow streets so holding an historic parade had its challenges.

Something unique to this parade was the ringing of the floodlit church bells as the procession approached the main area. More so because the bells were rung manually by a ringer who was actually up in the tower with the bells.

There were drummers and brass and flagwavers. There were men and women and children in mediaeval costumes. There were competing rione and a challenge. There were lots of people watching and everyone was having a good time.

The one thing there wasn't was lighting good enough for photos. You will have to excuse the photos and visualise for yourselves.

Walking and dreaming

We have amended our walking route to avoid having to dice with the traffic on the main road and also to extend the distance. After leaving the house we have a steady climb on asphalt for about 500 metres then we come onto a 'strada bianca' which takes us onto a plateau that provides stunning views in all directions.

A new shrine has been built at the entrance to a big new house.

In the distance we are surrounded by mountains but in the foreground there is first class farming land with forage and sunflowers being in-season at present. Baling is completed and some paddocks have been deep ripped ready for the next crops.

In the medium distance is the Lambourgini Golf Club and Lake Trasimeno is also within sight.

If we were twenty years younger and more importantly, if we had won Tattslotto, we have found the perfect place to renovate and it is right in the middle of these wonderful  surroundings.

At the point where we turn around there is a wooded area and also one of the vineyards along the road.

This afternoon we drove the route to find out the distance and to dream some more. It is a 4.5 km walk so it is both useful and pleasureable.

Isola Maggiore

We have visited Isola Maggiore on Lake Trasimeno several times and we always enjoy this tranquil spot. We took the ferry and arrived into the port at the one paved street that makes up the residential section of the island. There are a couple of restaurants, a church and the most interesting thing, ladies making and selling lace.

Once you leave the street there are many paths that lead you all over the island. There are two more churches, an old windmill and a derilect castle hidden amongst the trees and paths.

Today we chose the Way of St. Francis which runs along one side of the island and up a steep pinch to where Saint Francis of Assisi spent one Lenten period fasting, probably in the year 1211.

In a shrine there is an incredible old and eroded wooden statue of the saint, nearby is a newer version made from bronze.

It was at this stage that Kel commented, ' Another quaint torture trail.' 

St. Francis was obviously fitter than me!

Back in the street I liked these two signs of how these people make a living on this small island.

It was overcast today and the predicted thunderstorm stayed away while we were walking. For lunch I had a typical local light snack, a torta al testo with hot porchetta. 

Home on the ferry from where Castiglione del Lago looks spectacular, a really imposing and complete castle.

Elvis in the Piazza

It was a huge night in Panicale's Piazza Umberto I with the band King's Cafe performing Elvis songs. Luckily no white jump suits and sequins, just hours of Elvis songs. The enormous crowd had the restaurants and bars running at top speed and many people danced on the cobbles to the familiar beat. The market stalls were still open after 11pm and as the temperature was 26C no one was in a hurry to go home. 

It was good to catch up with friends David and Dianne from Scotland before they head back home.

The institution that is The Piazza in Italy is something to behold. Technically and historically it is the centre of civic, political and religious life but it is more than that. The heartbeat of the village, the source of entertainment, friendship, refreshment and what makes the Italian people who they are.

'Ci si vede in piazza!' ..... ' See you in the piazza!'

'

Bacio, the sweetest kiss

The Bacio is an iconic part of Italy and one that has been exported around the world for the pleasure of all. This bacio, or kiss, is a chocolate that is wrapped in romanticism, described as a true Italian chocolate wrapped in its own love message. 

The Perugina company was founded in Perugia, and in 1922 the Baci story began. The centre is a mix of top quality chocolate and crushed hazelnuts, on top of that is a whole hazelnut. This is coated in dark bittersweet chocolate and then the very special wrapper. Each Bacio has its own romantic love note included inside the starry sky foil wrapper.

I have been a fan of Baci chocolates for ages so the opportunity to do a tour and sample chocolates was too good to pass up. Since 1998 Nestlè have owned the company but they continue to make the Perugina range and also make some Nestlè products as well.

I was pleased to see the huge carpark full of cars as that meant that the factory floor was operating despite it being high summer. The carpark was mostly under cover with hundreds of solar panels on the tops of the shades.

We did an English language tour which was very good. First we saw a video which told us all about the growing of cacao beans and the method used to make chocolate. We saw history and production techniques, and the world market Perugina has for its chocolates and candies.

The museum was extensive with lots of detail on not only the production and range of products but also history, advertising, famous connections and achievements. There were photos of Mussolini visiting in 1923, a very young Frank Sinatra singing and promoting Baci (if you bought a box of Baci you got a discount voucher for Frank's latest record) and old pieces of equipment. The factory is now 90,000 sq. metres in size and very high tech.

At the Eurochocolate Festival 2003 in Perugia a 2.15 metres high, nearly 6 tonnes in weight 'bacione' or big kiss was created which entered the Guinness Book of Records for the largest chocolate candy ever made. After the official judging they broke it up and gave it all away - 1000 hours to make and 4 hours to eat.  They have a reproduction on display in the museum and I just had to stand beside it!

Next stop was the tasting room. They had samples of all their products with more than ample for the whole group. Naturally I tested several different ones and declared all to be perfect.

The plant has a covered walkway which allowed us to walk above the machinery and see the Baci being made. We were very lucky to see most of the process from the dipping to wrapping to packaging. No photos were allowed due to industrial spying.

They also have a Chocolate School where chefs and other interested people can have lessons during the colder months of the year.

And of course, we exited via the gift shop! But this was one gift shop I wasn't going to be hurried through. It is too hot for chocolate really but I bought a couple of items for testing purposes and also a selection of their fruit candies.

I especially liked the floor on a section of the shop - under glass they had creatively placed the romantic quotes found inside the famous Baci.

I often use my favourite quote and this seems like a good time to use it again -  'It doesn't matter what the question is, the answer is chocolate!'