Thursday, 26 July 2018

Off to the Green Heart of Italy - Umbria

We are always a little sad to leave Rome and Kel often hums Arrivederci Roma as we depart. After a quiet and uneventful train trip of one hour forty minutes we arrived at Chiusi where we collected our hire car and drove the short distance to our favourite village, Panicale.

Our friend Katia met us and showed us to our accommodation for the next five weeks. This year we are inside the ancient walls in a recently restored multi level apartment with a garden. Garden space is rare inside the walls so we are very lucky. It is a beautiful restoration and we will enjoy being here.










                                                                 A welcome gift

It is always nice to arrive in Panicale on a Thursday in July or August because they have live music in the Piazza on Thursday evenings. The bars and restaurants have extra tables and chairs and the piazza fills with people enjoying the summer evenings. It is such a quintessential Italian thing for us.
Tonight's  music was provided by a swing soul band called Four Seasons, a three piece music group and a dynamic female singer. 



We were recognised and welcomed by many people in the piazza which was nice, it made us feel like we had returned home.

Wednesday, 25 July 2018

Rome - another treasure hunt

Today was another treasure hunt day! The months spent researching before we depart are as much part of the trip as the actual travel. Mr. Google has been invaluable for finding new and interesting places to see in Rome; the more you dig, the more you find.

First stop today was a new and free museum, the Vespa Museum. This iconic motor scooter has been a part of Italian life since shortly after WWII. They had examples of many of the models and some memorabilia related to the Vespa.







Wherever you turn in Rome you see its amazing history, its antiquity on display and being lived amongst.




It seems the Romans invented Selfies!




The Church of Sant Andrea della Valle is a beautiful church but best known amongst opera fans as the setting for part of Rossini's opera Tosca. Free head sets gave a potted history of the church, its founding and its art.



 Upper windows are giving me some unexpected views, these photos of Piazza Navona were taken from an upper window in Palazzo Braschi, part of the Museum of Rome.


To celebrate the 250th anniversary of the death of the artist Giovanni Antonio Canal, better known as Canaletto, the Museum of Rome is holding an exhibition which is "the largest collection of works ever exhibited in Italy: 67 paintings, drawings and documents selected for their beauty and their importance, (that) illustrate his thinking and method, the technique and relationship with reality." (Brochure)

I have been a fan of Canaletto and his veduta style since I first saw one of his works in England many, many years ago. Canaletto 1697 - 1768 was a very interesting collection with lots of background information. Unfortunately no photos were allowed but, as they say on the cooking shows, here is one I prepared earlier! (In Madrid)




The next instruction required us to pass through Campo de Fiori, originally a flower market but now fruit and vegetables and other produce are also included.






' From Campo de Fiori, in Piazza del Biscione look towards the dark brown end with the Madonna on the wall. The entrance is at the back on the far right.'  And there we found the Passetto del Biscione!
This passage has an interesting history and has recently been restored.




Sometimes you discover that you have seen a place before. This was the case with Santa Barbara del Librai. However it is rarely open so we have still not seen inside.


I am a follower of a blog called 'An American in Rome' and she gives good food advice as well as things to see and places to go. So lunch today was at her suggestion - Antica Forno Rosciolo in via Chiavari. This is very popular with locals but there were tourists there too. First you select your food, then you go to the cashier to pay and then you return to collect your order. All very Italian. Once you have your food you have to find a stand up bench space to eat. I had white focaccia filled with porchetta, a stuffed roast pork. Soooo delicious!




We must have walked many kilometres today and so we passed many landmarks. The Tiber River wasn't  quite its pistacchio colour.



By the time we got to Piazza del Popolo we were ready for gelati, and often listed as one of the top ten gelateria in Rome is Gelateria dei Gracchi. We sampled apple and sultana, lemon, vanilla and coffee. 



35 degrees  in Rome is very hot and after walking more than half way home we detoured into a Metro and rode two stops on a super jam-packed train to Termini. Home for a shower and a snooze ... and some blogging.

Later this evening we went to a rather smart bar near our hotel and ordered drinks and two small plates of tapas style food. It turned out that the plates were called Happy Hour, and for the cost of the drinks we got the plates of nibbles, olives and chips. How civilized!





Tuesday, 24 July 2018

Rome - Acquedotto Claudio

I have often seen great photos of a large length of Roman aqueduct near Rome but never known where it was. Some detective work located the name and some loose instructions on finding it. That was today's  challenge. The first task was to take a light picnic and travel on the Metro to Lucio Sestio. From there the directions were sketchy.

The  Acquedotto Claudio was begun in 38 A.D by Emperor Caligula and finished in 52 A.D by Emperor Claudius. Originally it was 69 kms long, mostly underground, and after Nero built an additional part it supplied all the water for the fourteen regions of Rome. Now the remaining portions are very much less but still impressive and once again prove the might of the Romans, especially in hydronics.

The acqueduct ruins are in Parco degli Acquedotti which is part of the Appian Way Regional Park, a 3500 hectare reserve of ancient Roman ruins which includes the catacombs. Today in Parco degli Acquedotti there were people cycling, running and exercising and only a few tourists so I guess Acquedotti Claudio is still a tourist secret.




















Tonight we followed another lead from my research and ate at Al Forno della Soffitta in via Piave. Research said to get there early otherwise you would queue and wait, and that was the case for all who arrived about twenty minutes after us. This place had an agreeable balance between formal and casual and we thoroughly enjoyed our meal.

Prosecco

 Deep fried calzone with ricotta and ham

 Shaving the prosciutto

 Pasta with a calamari, sweet potato and almond sauce

 Kel chose amatriciana sauce on his pasta

 ... and tiramisù

I had rhum babà.