Cetona and Lillo Tatini

Sadly, our Italian adventure is drawing to a close, but not until Thursday. Today we went to Chiusi to book our seats on the train back to Rome. From there we drove to Cetona where we had rented a gatehouse apartment in 2003. It was winter on that occasion and we were amazed at the different appearance today; so much so that we had problems remembering the town and surrounds.

In 2003 this was bare earth, bare trees and about 2 degrees c.

We have been dining out at some quality restaurants both in our town and away. Tonight we went to the last of the Panicale restaurants. Lilli Tatini has a Michelin rating, is situated on the high end of the piazza and has a terrace overlooking the fountain. We had a superb meal with excellent service and friendly conversation. We ate a hand made pasta with a duck ragù, Kel had roast pigeon and I had wonderful meatballs. Then we had an Umbrian strudel made with a fine pasta, fruit and nuts and peach ice-cream. Excellent local wine and a complimentary liqueur with saffron topped off a great night.

This is the view from the terrace this evening.

Bella cosa far niente

Washing day in Italy is very different to washing day in Australia. Like all things here, they are done in small bits. The machines are smaller than we are used to and take much longer to wash. There are no Hill's Hoists, in fact there are very few lines from windows. A portable line is the usual way.

While some people do the washing, others enjoy the quiet life with a good book - Kindle style!

After La Pausa we did the 'over the ridge' walk to Paciano again. Was this a wild boar on the road?

The reward for the stiff climb makes the effort worthwhile.

So that was our day - Bella cosa far niente, or Idleness is a nice employment.

Assisi for lunch

With a beautiful 26 degrees predicted today, we returned to Assisi for lunch at another Buon Ricordo restaurant. Buca di San Francesco is a traditional Umbrian restaurant and has been part of the Buon Ricordo programme for many years. The speciality of the house, and the dish you must order to qualify for the plate, was a hearty soup made from various beans and grains from the area. It was extremely nice despite the warmer day.

I had a veal and porcini mushroom main course and a chocolate and chestnut pudding for dessert. Afterwards we wandered some more around the city of peace which is always so peaceful.

We travelled cross country both ways thus avoiding Perugia and the convergence of motorways. The scenery is more beautiful, the driving more pleasant and we can make small deviations to see new places. Today we went to Bettona, another of the villages judged the most beautiful in Umbria. We agreed with the decision this time; Bettona is very attractive and has an amazing view looking towards Assisi.

We travelled 136 kilometres for the day and arrived home at 6.30 pm, just in time to go to the piazza for a Prosecco.

Lunch by the lake and a new Fiat Punto

On this morning's walk we saw two new flowers. The pink ones are wild miniature cyclamen and the second are crocuses. Saffron crocuses are grown nearby at Città della Pieve but they are mauve with long red stamen.

Today has been a bit of an odd day but as they say, it all turned right in the end!
We had planned to go to a recommended restaurant around Lago Trasimeno for lunch but discovered that they are closed on Tuesdays. Plan two was to go to a restaurant in Castiglione del Lago where we had celebrated 50th birthdays with Melbourne friends (many years ago!!) As we turned into the street where we were to park Kel suddenly said, 'We have no gears!' We limped into the car park and then realised that 'la pausa' had started and our rental company would be closed until 3.30 pm.
Plan three was to have lunch at a nearby lakeside restaurant we had seen last week when visiting CdLago with Cate.
We had a superb lunch at this fish restaurant La Pigra Tinca, with a stunning lake view and perfect weather.

My Panzanella with fish pieces

Kel's tipici meats, cheeses and bread plate

My gnocchietta with freshwater crayfish sauce.

Kel had tagliolini with lake fish flavours sauce.

Both were delicious!

Our waiter was very generous in ringing the car rental company and explaining the problem to them. We had a long wait for the representative to arrive as there had been a big storm in Chiusi. The gear cable had broken, and we were given another Fiat Punto to see us on our way. Well done Avis!

After that we needed to visit Bar Alise for a gelati fix. Still more gusti ( flavours) yet to test.

We won, we won!

We live in the rione Centro Storico so that is where our allegiances lie. Their colours are red and blue.

At about 11 pm last night the prizes for the various competitive events and the overall winner were presented. We won, we won!

After a very hectic week-end we enjoyed the sunshine and the garden today. We tried a new gelatteria this evening and it had several new varieties, all were delicious! In this photo you can see Kelly pretending he can read the paper. Actually we did see Australia mentioned on page 3 about sending eight F16 bombers and military experts overseas.

At about 6.30 pm it is the habit of non-Italians in Panicale to meet at Bar Gallo. Being the only Australians, and short term stays, we sit by ourselves and watch. Tonight's free offering from the bar was panzanello.

The Festa dell' Uva continues

The Grape Festival continued today and what a lot of fun we have had. The parade went around outside the village walls, right along our street (the former moat), in fact, it went around three times. The participants were exuberant, full of fun and in character for a long period. Lots of colour, noise and excitement, and we had a prime viewing spot from our garden wall above the road.

The Palio dei Bigonci, a race simulating carrying buckets of grapes was over very quickly, so quickly that I only got one ordinary photo.

In the evening we resumed our Gusti di Lago wine and food tasting experience. Some lovely wines and interesting tastes.

It has been a really great experience to be in Panicale for their festival. There has been so much to do and I haven't even mentioned the community dinners, live music and dancing under the stars or the wine bar set up in the gardens with karaoke and live music.

In the end it was all too much for some of us.

You won't believe it but it really did happen!

The sun has come out and the people have come out to play.

This morning the third wedding we have seen occurred at the Panicale Town Hall. The official part of the wedding is conducted at the Town Hall by the Mayor. Some people go on to have a blessing in the church. Today's bride was from Tasmania and she married an Italian man. We met them on Thursday as they are staying in a rental villa, so we went along to see the wedding.

The bride arrived in a white Smart car which was fun.

After the ceremony they moved to the piazza for Prosecco and nibbles by the fountain.

After lunch we went to a local wine and oil producer La Querciolana, where we tasted and purchased some very nice reds.

It was time to put diesel in the Fiat Punto. That might sound like a simple matter but it isn't as most fuel outlets are unmanned and you have to pay before you fill the tank. That may be fine if you know how much you need but for us it is a tricky matter.

So while we were in CdLago we went to Bar Alise again for their excellent gelati.

Our German neighbours had invited us to view an art exhibition in their garden. There were four ladies showing sculptures from recycled materials, ceramics and fine jewellery. Drinks and nibbles in the pretty garden added to the event.

The Festa dell' Uva got under way again this evening. There are nine local wineries set up in little niches about town and each has a local food supplier. We bought our wine glasses in their around the neck bags with map and tickets to each winery tasting station and set off to sample the food and wine. It was lots of fun and some of the wines pleased us immensely.

At about 10 pm the parade started. The three rione competing for the prize each had a float and they were big, elaborate floats. Large tractors were used to pull them. Lots of light, colour and sound, and I believe they can have messages and double meanings. The most interesting thing was that they were handing out plastic cups of wine, one from 5 litre bottles and another had it on tap!

And then...right on midnight the cheese rolling competition began! This involved rolling a 6 kg wheel of cheese around the circular street in front of our house. A long strap is wrapped around the cheese and it is swung back and forth then let go. After 55 minutes there was no winner but we are not sure why. There were some heated discussions though.