Isola Maggiore, Lago Trasimeno

Isola Maggiore is one of three islands on Lago Trasimeno and the only permanently inhabited one. It is a thirty minute ferry ride from Castiglione del Lago. Today was our fifth visit to Isola Maggiore, but the first was twenty years ago!

 There are four ferry terminals around the lake but not all go to Isola Maggiore. They also service Polvese. Isola Minore is privately owned, thickly wooded and has no ferry service.

 Castiglione del Lago means castle on the lake. It certainly is an impressive building from the water.

 Approaching Isola Maggiore the former monastery cum castle stands out. The Franciscan Monastery dates from 1328 and the castle was created in 1880. Sadly it is now a derilect building and you cannot go near it. 
The 12 century church of Saint Michael on the top of the island has frescoes of note. We didn't  climb up there today but we have previously.

 The village has one street and within it are several buildings from the 1300s.  Now there are several restaurants vying for custom.

This coat of arms above a door in the 14th century Confraternity building.

A touch of modernity; the house numbers and some artistic poetic tiles are an attractive addition.

La chiesa di Buon Gesù has had several updates over the years but dates from 15th century.

 The Captain's House has a great old clock with bell.

The Church of San Salvatore

Saint Francis of Assisi spent Lent in 1211 on Isola Maggiore. Today we did the walk along the area where he lived, amongst the holmoaks. The incredibly old statue of St. Francis always fascinates, and there is a more modern version too. Saint Francis lived in many places in Umbria and where it is always noted, it is never over sold. 
I like that!

I was looking forward to lunch under the big old holmoaks where their torta al testo is especially good. Sadly they were out of porchetta so I had to have prosciutto crudo and mozzarella. Still very good.

Lago Trasimeno is quite shallow and with the clouds coming and going, the colours in the water were intriguing. It looks like we missed a thunder storm at home.

Greens and blues

We set off early this morning for a short walk because the weather is too hot for our planned expeditions, however it proved to be a hot and challenging route for me. We were away almost two hours but sadly my Fitbit didn't  record my distance. Too hot for it also, I suspect!

Roadside shrines are a feature of Italy, be it in Rome or in the country. We passed four today.

                     With sign posts like this maybe a quick prayer might be the way to go.

Once off the sealed road we were on a strada bianca, a white road, and these are often pretty treacherous unsealed roads with lots of loose rocks and dust. Something like walking downhill on marbles. Despite having my trekking pole, today I took a dive (or more like the splits), with one leg slipping forward and one going back. A most ungainly ride which resulted in a hole in my pants and a slight skin loss. But a road going down always goes up again so on we strode.

As it is mid summer there are not many flowers around, mainly tough weeds but they do provide some colour. 

After we came out of the forest we walked beside olive groves and farming land where it is a quilt of many colours - ploughed fields, sunflowers, crops, vines, baled hay and even some bison grazing.

Finally we came to the main road back up to Panicale. It is steep and a series of switchbacks so we went left and cut through the foothills of Panicale, I finally staggered out onto the  main road in a state of exhaustion.

 Hail Mary full of Grace, help me get back to my place!

But all is forgiven when we cast our eyes on this magnificent view. Lago Trasimeno is looking cool and inviting in the background, the scene never failing to excite us.

It is a funny thing about the siesta or 'pausa.' In Spain and Italy it is an accepted part of life, but if you have an afternoon nap in Australia you are considered to be getting old.

This evening's music in the piazza was brilliant! I am not a great fan of music but tonight's blues trio, the Mario Donatone Trio, were so entertaining that they kept the crowd involved until nearly midnight. It was a huge crowd, the biggest we have ever seen at these weekly events.

The Trasimeno Blues Festival is running at present and this band is part of their programme, a real bonus for Panicale to have them.

  This photo of the crowded piazza was taken from the FB page of the Borgo Commerciale Naturale di Panicale - with thanks.

Market day

Today was market day in Castiglione del Lago. Market day is very important in rural Italy because it is the place where every-one does their shopping. The market is weekly and so on Monday we can go to Tavernelle, on Wednesday to C de L and on Friday there is a small one in Panicale. In fact, without travelling too far we could go to a market every day but Sunday.

As well as fruit and vegetables, fish, cheese, roast porchetta and salami, the stalls also sell ladies and men's  clothing, children's clothes and toys, underwear, shoes, hats and scarves, bed and table linen, plants, kitchen ware and other essential needs.

 Kel buying his favourite socks

 €15 a pair for Italian made leather shoes - with bling!

 The porchetta man sells seasoned roast pork in bread rolls, or in slices to take home.

It does take some time to get used to women buying bras and other undergarments at an outdoor market!

For $4.50 we got all this in-season, fresh and tasty fruit and veg.

Or we could have bought board shorts with koala or aboriginal dot art designs.

There is always an interesting array of local products on display and for sale in the town centre. These cutting or serving boards are made from olive wood.

Salami with truffles or ummm! Which would you prefer?

This group of musicians was rehearsing for an upcoming performance, in a small church with the doors open for all to watch.

On market day we always buy lunch at the forno bakery and take it down to the lake for a picnic. Today we were entertained by a group of children having sailing lessons.

Tonight was treat night and we had a super meal at  Osteria Il Gallo nel Pozzo. As requested by my blogging mate Janelle, here are photos!

Patè on a toasted brioche

 A Monte Vibiano 2014 red blend, recommended our host Simone.  Kel says all good wine comes in heavy bottles and this one was heavy! 

 A tagliatini pasta with Lago Trasimeno shrimp, turnip greens sauce and dehydrated Trasimeno beans.

 Kel's  main was duck

A tiramisù and a chocolate basket with apricot gelato and chocolate mousse. Guess who had the chocolate?

A lovely evening, thank you Gianmarco, Lorena, Simone and Giada.