Colle San Paolo and suit cases

The time comes when you just have to make those big decisions; who will carry the ceramics in their suitcase, do we really need those souvenir brochures and maps, can we do this without crying. Kel's big decision is will he drink one bottle of wine tomorrow or can he take two home in the case!

Left-overs never tasted so good. Prosciutto (o.k. so we bought some more!), pecorino and honey, sweet little tomatoes, olives and my favourite croccanti.

Every hill seems have some sort of ancient fortification or monastery and one in particular has been capturing our imagination. On Sunday we had a conversation with an old man named Mario (conversation might be too strong a word) and Kel asked about that particular hill. From his reply we caught the names Colle San Paolo and Colle Calzolaro. Today we drove through Tavernelle to Colle San Paolo where the old fortress is now part of a farm and close by is a very interesting church. It is historically interesting with artworks and a crypt, it also has three nuns who live there, but most interesting was that this little church in a relatively remote rural community should have such restoration works. A young priest was preparing to paint a Madonna on the ambo frontal, we wondered if he had done all the paintings on the ceiling.

The views from up on the Colle were superb.

Colle Calzolaro is a very small hamlet but so cute. Amongst the very old buildings that were falling into ruin were homes proudly displaying a fiesta of flowers at their doors.

We had planned to go to our favourite restaurant Il Gallo nel Pozzo on our last night but they will not be open so we went tonight. Simone and Lorena have a wonderful restaurant, the food is so good - I will never forget the gigli pasta with truffles. I have had it three times and it has been magnificent every time.

Monte Petrarvella

Today we climbed Monte Petrarvella, descended to Missiano and walked back to Panicale. We were following a route designated as no. M23 walking track marked with red and white paint daubs . In all, we walked 15 kilometres. 

The path started out very steep but paved in concrete.

We initially passed some very pretty properties.

The road changed to a typical white road and the forest became denser, the climb was challenging. Then we spotted the top of Monte Petrarvella with its pine trees.

Now the track was rocky, very rough and steep. My trekking pole saved me several times.

But it got rougher and tougher!

When we reached the top we found there was no view. But no matter, time for a selfie.

We set off down the other side along a track that was narrow and a little overgrown in places. At times there were views, meadows with flowers, the occasional ruin, but the track was so rough that we dared not take our eyes off the rocks to take photos. 

We arrived in Missiano and eagerly opened our picnic lunch on the rocks by the cemetery.

The walk back from Missiano to Panicale was along the asphalt road and through olive groves. I just can't get enough of rock walls and old olive trees.

The lace and embroidery exhibition continues

I have never seen such exquisite hand work as has been on display this weekend. This large table cloth was my favourite as it included several different types of embroidery and lace making and it was absolutely faultless. Spectacular!

Can you believe the fine work here? 

If you think macrame is 1970s then think again, this very fine cotton knotted lace is macrame! 

In the afternoon we did the art and photography exhibitions. 

International award winning photojournalist Steve McCurry had a small but stunning collection of photos entitled, correctly,'Sensational Umbria'. To have seen one of these photos would have been a delight but to see several was wonderful.

Opera 'Don Giovanni' at the Teatro Caporali in Panicale

The experiences never stop in Panicale. Last night we had excellent seats at the Teatro Cesare Caporali to see the opera 'Don Giovanni', a tragi-comedy with music by Mozart.

This tiny theatre is gorgeous and it amazed me that they had an orchestra pit, a lighting box and all the necessities for producing an opera of real quality. No sound box needed!
The orchestra was excellent and the singers amazing. They told the story absolutely with their singing and dramatic actions. We loved it!

At interval we were invited to make a small donation for a vino Marzemino or a semifreddo, served in a hand made goblet or bowl inscribed 'Don Giovanni 2014 Panicale.'... to keep as a memory of the night. What a good idea!

Fili in Trama - 2nd International Exhibition of Lace and Embroidery in Panicale

Another huge weekend in this little village of Panicale. This is the second year of this international exhibition of lace and embroidery and the village is dressed to please. 

The fountain looks gorgeous with lawn and flowers decorating its steps and rim.

The shops all have a little display of the local lacemakers' talents.

The Mayor cut the ribbon and opened the festival.

Those small rooms that appeared from behind closed doors for the grape festival have reappeared as exhibition spaces and sales points. Other larger spaces have opened in the castle and along lane ways. Additionally marquees have been set up, art works hang on the 1000 year old walls and people demonstrating their crafts are seated all about town.

The hand work is exquisite and the many uses for these amazing talents is incredible - lace ear rings, mediaeval costumes for parades, clothing that must take years to make and be beyond value.