San Lorenzo Maggiore and La Neapolis Sotterrata, Napoli

This morning we extended our walk around Porta Nolana and the market. The gate dates from the 15th century and the road through passes by our apartment. Now it is  an area that specialises in  market quality jewellery, scarves and clothes.  The market is active every day and is especially noted for its seafood.

Later in the day we were enjoying Napoli street food for lunch when I noticed that  almost everyone was stopping opposite us and taking a photo. I could see why when I stood up. According to the sign it is a doll hospital... and much more, I suspect.

Walking along via San Gregorio Armeno is a lot of fun. Known for its miniature pieces to go in the traditional cork bark nativities, you find all sorts of other local curiosities. This stall below caught my attention with their heroes all represented - San Gennaro, Maradona and Osimhen.

Our destination today was the Monumental Complex of San Lorenzo Maggiore and La Neapolis Sotterrata. The Basilica of San Lorenzo (St. Laurence) is the second oldest church in Naples, having its beginnings in 533-555. But its real attraction is its subterranean  history of the evolution of Napoli. Through various layers of well preserved history we can see how people lived and worked from the 5th century B.C 

until the end of the 18th century. The earliest parts are Greek and Roman, and the newest structures the Franciscan monastery. The cloister is built over the ancient streets.

Once underground and into the archaeological site we came into a narrow street of Roman age with many rooms used for commercial purposes. The treasury and then the two roomed shops clearly show what they were used for - a furnace, dying and washing tanks, baker's oven. 

Later we came to the covered market with stalls and display benches.

This diagonal brick work is over 2000 years old and is constructed without cement.

There is evidence of canals made to control water and also some larger rooms that had tiled floors and frescoes on the walls. These are thought to be meeting rooms.  

It always amazes me with what is below the surface. So much wonderful historical remmant still waiting to be studied in further detail, but in the meantime preserved for eternity.

Back into the cloister we were able to visit several other features of the later period. Through 14th century doors we entered the Capitol Hall built in the 1200s. This was the monks meeting room and has extensive wall and ceiling decoration by  Luigi Rodriguez which depicts the family tree of the Franciscan Monks Minor Order.

Another room housed a huge Nativity scene in the Italian style with moving parts and illumination. Saint Francis was the creator of the first nativity scene.

This is but a small part of a collection like nothing I have ever seen before. Walnut shells have been used as bases for a miniature representation set of stories from the Bible. They were so intricate.

On to the  Room Sisto V, the old refectory of the monks. More ceiling frescoes by Rodriguez, the theme here was the seven Christian virtues,  four minor virtues and maps of the provinces.

In 1442 this room was used by the Neapolitan Parliament and many important historic events took place in this room.

There are museum collections upstairs, these jugs date from the 1400s.

Finally we came to the Basilica, a huge space and rather austere, it has a spectacular number of side chapels that create all the colour and feeling needed. This tomb and frescoe are from the earlier period of the church.

When we stepped out the front door of the Basilica, there right in front of us was a big sign advertising Aperol Spritz, and a waiter only too keen to find us a seat. We accepted and he asked us where we were from. When we said Australia he beckoned over an Indian colleague, seemed fair to us!, and he informed us chips were free. That is quite common in Italy so we were happy with that.

Well, that wasn't what we were expecting but we weren't complaining.