Rome - Just walk, no grand plans needed

With only one day in Rome (but having spent many weeks here over the years) today's plan was to re-visit Isola Tiberina with fresh eyes. We had been there before but recently I read a novel* based around the saving of many Jewish people from the Nazis during WWII. A fake disease called 'Syndrome K' which the doctor claimed was deadly, disfiguring and contagious kept the Nazis from entering the Fatebenefratelli Hospital just across from the Jewish Ghetto. In Rome the rounding up and killing of Jewish people began in 1943.

But along the way I saw several sets of stairs that I could have used a few weeks ago, but I resisted the urge.

Vespas are always worth photographing, these decorated ones especially.

There are surprises everywhere in Rome, even after all the years we have been visiting we still find lots of new things to see and do. A fresco never fails to attract, this one on the Capitoline Hill.

The second photo below shows how the building from the second century A.D. is now nine metres below the street level. You can just see the fresco in the upper left.

This was the first glimpse of Isola Tiberina, Ponte Fabricio and the hospital.

The Fatebenefratelli Hospital was founded in 1585 and continues to be a major hospital in Rome. In fact an ambulance rushed in while we were on the island.

Our first gelato stop was oh, so good. THE best caffe gelato I have ever had ... or so it seemed!

The Basilica of San Bartolomeo all' Isola was constructed in the year 1000 but in recent years has taken up a modern image as the Sanctuary of the New Martyrs of the 20th and 21st Century.

In the side chapels are mementoes of the martyrs from the Nazi regime, in Europe, in Africa, during the Communist era, in America and in Asia and Oceania. As often happens, this is quite moving when you are seeing names and dates that you can relate to, rather than 'historic' events and people.

Outside again we could only look at the exterior of the former monastery and hospital complex.

In the novel I read that the Portico d' Ottavia was the location for a Nazi attack and the rescue of a small Jewish child. Across the Ponte Cestio we soon came upon the ruin of the portico, the remains of an ancient walkway built in the 2nd century B.C.to link two Roman temples.

Close by was a  museum with photos and much detail on three concentration camps, Belzec, Sobibor  and Treblinka, where thousands of Jews were held captive and huge numbers exterminated. A moving and sad experience.

As we were walking towards the Tiber river we passed this coloseum-like ancient building, previously not seen.

Later we discovered that the Portico d' Ottavia was part of the same complex of ancient ruins and that it was the Teatro di Marcello. It was an open-air theatre built at the close of the Roman Empire. Visitors can wander freely amongst the ruins where the colours, shapes and textures are a delight. 

This area of ruins was the Jewish Ghetto and today still remains Jewish. The synagogue is there, as well as kosher food outlets and other distinctive features.

On we wandered past interesting shops, picturesque small streets with bougainvillia and jasmine in bloom and people enjoying their lunch in the delightful 27 degree sunny day.

Then we found Mercato Rionale Monti in via Baccina, a small food market. 

As we entered the building a man asked if we wanted a sandwich. We agreed and he produced the sandwiches with fresh ricotta cheese, mortadella and purple lettuce. With a Peroni, it went down really well. I also bought a slab of croccante, a crispy, salty, thin pastry.

We arrived home, having avoided the rain showers, and relaxed whilst working on journals and this blog. At 8 pm we walked to Piccolo Spazzio, a restaurant close to our hotel where we are always made welcome. Despite the coolish evening an Aperol spritz was enjoyed; always an essential when in Italy.

* What was the novel?  It was The Italian Ballerina by Kristy Cambron