Sunday 11 June 2023

Day 8 - Monteriggioni to Siena

It rained over night so we had a very humid start to the day, however that cleared and we had perfect walking weather for a couple of hours. We avoided the heart bursting walk up to Monteriggioni again by walking around the base road and easily located the track. Along the track we had a good view of this masterpiece fortified village Monteriggioni.


Walking in the morning was varied with woodland tracks, very old bridges, farm land, a couple of fortified castles dating from the 14th century and white roads that are pleasant to walk on. So good not having to watch every step we take.








About 11 am we came upon Punto Sosta La Villa, right on the Via Francigena. The owner has created a haven of rest for pilgrims where he offers hot and cold drinks, biscuits and cakes, yoghurt, boiled eggs and all sorts of other foods and  needs. The toilet is amazing, offering all the usual things plus bathroom scales, emergency repair equipment and more. All of this is in a  quirky garden setting and all of which is provided not for profit but to offer support for people on pilgrimage. We hoped his donation bowls were well supported.









While we were enjoying a cappuccino and biscuits, along came our English friends, 'the gods'. Then the rain torrented down and we were all most grateful for the shelter this hospitality stop point provided. Eventually we donned the plastic ponchos once again and left our friends playing cards. Of course, they passed us some little time later.

On we walked, loving the experience but not loving the wet, the incredible mud and the rocks. These following photos look innocent enough but they are the actual path and not associated wash-outs. The ground was often treacherously sticky and I could not have survived without my trekking pole. Often in this last section of the walk we came to places where the water was very deep and at least 20 metres long. There was no alternative but to follow where others had headed into the scrub to get around the waterholes.  It is very sad to see the damage being done to the route because of the intense wet that Italy has had recently, combined with hunters' vehicles. 








Then we came to a sealed road and a big sign saying Siena. Were we excited! What a trick that was, we were three hours away from our hotel!! This section got very tricky and we were grateful for a young couple whom we were able to follow.









Eventually we came to a cemetery, a good sign of life!  We rounded the corner,  spotted a picnic table and headed for it. I only had time to put the trekking pole and phone on the table when down came another ton of water. We were well wet by the time the already wet ponchos were back on. They do thunder storms so well in Tuscany!


We couldn't stay by the cemetery wall any longer so off we went, up a steep hill walking on the edge of the asphalt with cars passing us as the torrent ran down the road. Most were kind and tried not to shower us.

I can only say the last five kilometres into Siena, with very steep and long hills, in a hot and wet poncho and with no food since the two biscuits at the Sosta ... it was enough to almost kill me.

We have been incredibly unlucky with the weather and the amount of mud we had to negotiate, all I can say is this seventy five year old is most grateful that she made it to the end.

We arrived at our accommodation to find we were on the second floor, fifty three steps up. As I flung open the shutters, the bells of the Basilica di San Domenico were ringing out a loud and joyous noise. All was forgiven, what a day we had had.





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