Sunday 25 June 2023

Banksy Exhibition in Lecce and a day of Surprises

Around every corner is a surprise. This morning we came upon this unusual sight, a facade that has been retained and incorporated into a more modern building. Lecce is an architectural delight, from the grand churches and palazzi to more humble structures.

Nearby was another church, but this one had these unusual tiles on the floor.



Surveying the map this morning, we were looking for places we hadn't visited and the Mure Urbiche once again came forward. We had tried to find this fortified wall last week because it has a newly opened exhibition space and a Banksy exhibition. All attempts to find both the place and any details of the exhibition had failed.

Today I just wanted to see the Walls so we went through Porta Nuova, past the spectacular oleanders, past the Obelisk and turned right along the busy road to Brindisi.



Eventually some open space and fortifications came into view, a moat, an internal garden and some seriously defensive walls.






Even some 17th century graffiti.


We kept following around the Wall and, lo and behold ... the Banksy Exhibition. 'Capitalist Realism. Banksy: Art in the Absence of Utopia'



Not surprisingly there were few people there, and we were ushered up into the fortress and from one section to another where we spent an interesting hour or more. Banksy is well known as an English street artist, mainly using the stencil method; conversely he is not well known really as his identity is not known.

Time magazine described Banksy as a graffiti master, painter, activist, filmmaker and all-purpose provocateur. His works, whether on city walls, on canvas or in print , all entice thought on the subject he is addressing. Whether political, environmental or ethical, there are always at least two ways to look at the image.

Coming from a genuine graffiti art background, his work is gritty and can cause offense. It seems necessary to think deeply on the subject title and matter. Most of the prints on display are from the early 2000's.

Capitalism is a big part of his exhibition, his clever words for each design don't remain static and work from the late 1990s remain relevant today. 


'There are four fundamental human needs; food, sleep, sex and revenge.'
 

Monkey Queen was an anti-authoritarian statement, about people who are born into a role where they control people.


The rat with the peace symbol around his neck is a recurring image in Banksy's work. The rat is seen as a clever trickster, an example of something we don't like but which ultimately has the power to wipe out whole populations. He sees the rat's place in society as directly related to how people look at graffiti artists.


The girl with a ballon is a very popular work, less aggressive, it is associated with hope. There are many variations.
 
This is also the image that was sold at auction by Southeby's in 2018 and immediately after the sale the artwork began to destroy itself through a shredder hidden in the frame. The work was re-named Love is in the Bin. In October 2018 Love is in the Bin became the most expensive Banksy ever to be sold at auction ... at 18,582,000 GBP. 
Indeed a clever trickster!



There were two of these flow chart works. One showing the life of Banksy, another the progression of society when power and consumerism take over. The second incorporated the various Banksy works addressing the various issues. Clever!


Barcode Leopard has several interpretations - commodification of wild animals, poaching, excesses of consumerism and entrapment.


Another oft used symbol from the Vietnam war but now extended to all power battles. The gift wrapped chopper speaks of hypocritical actions in the name of peace or democracy. Others on display with this theme were Golf Sale and Bomb Hugger.


This was probably my favourite, called Love is in the Air, it is an adaptation of a photo of rocks being tossed in Palestine and the name was inspired by the John Paul Young song of that name. Throw flowers, not rocks.

There was also a collection of photos and videos of Banksy at work. All together a very interesting and thought provoking exhibition, well displayed and we were pleased that we found its location.


This evening we went to Mass at San Matteo, one of the big four Baroque churches in Lecce.  There was an interesting group in attendance, lots of hugs and kisses. As the service commenced we became curious then realised that we were witnessing a marriage  between a couple who appeared to have adult children as their witnesses. It was a lovely occasion despite us struggling to hear and understand. Another  surprise.


The music was provided by a pretty little nun with a guitar who sang with great passion.


One of the things that the guides suggest is to experience night life in the historic centre of Lecce. When we came out of the church the crowds had increased incredibly. It seemed every bit of walkway had been covered in tables and chairs with restaurants that had four tables during the day suddenly having forty. Passeggiata is a regular part of Italian life - dressing up and walking up and down the favoured street to see and be seen. It was all happening tonight.

We found a restaurant that had a table for two out on the pedestrianised roadway. Perfect for us! Kel had noticed that they were serving 'patate fritte' and he knew I was yearning for hot chips (or possibly the salt!). We had a very enjoyable meal despite the surprises, and the non Italian nature of the meal. It has been quite hot again so we were looking for cold drinks. The beer didn't fit the bill so we changed to sangria. The biggest surprise was yet to come. Over the last few years we have noticed a growing interest in hamburgers, even shops called 'hamburgeria'. So we ordered a mixed hamburger each. The chips arrived first and then the burger. 
What a surprise when this arrived!



After eating we joined the crowds of people filling the streets. All ages, lots of prams and dogs, beautifully dressed young people (all noticably slim) and all creating a very happy atmosphere. 

We joined a very long queue for gelato after 11 pm and as we enjoyed it we couldn't help thinking how special the Italian lifestyle is. Not once have we seen or felt anything slightly unpleasant or scary.

Like the Banksy flower tosser ... love is in the air!










 



















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