Essaouira to Marrakech

 The cat population in Essaouira iHome s quite large, about 3000, and with tourists cats are often associated with rabies. Not so with the Essaouira people, who treat cats with a similar kindly attitude as they treat all people. The cats are not domesticated but were appreciated as rat and mouse catchers in the days of the large shipping port. Many people cut a cat hole in their door so the cats could enter, however this led to more rats and mice entering too, so now we can see many sealed up cat holes.

The cats are fed with dry food in bowls or heaps in the street, and many frequent the port area where the fishermen are kind to them. Rashid told us that there is a system started by English people who live there where cats are de-sexed, and a missing tip to the ear indicates that the cat has been fixed.

                                                                                                                 Cat photos by Margot

With the many hours we spent crushed amongst frenzied crowds at Dubai and Casablanca airports it was inevitable that COVID would catch us. We have now been in Morocco five days and of our seventeen Travellers six now have COVID and another six have had 'upset tums'. Our wonderful tour guide has been very kind in sourcing more masks, anti virals and other needs. All are soldiering on, the sickies sit at the back of the bus and those expecting the inevitable are sitting to the front. Driss says that in his vast experience it is just like a cold so don't worry!

Today we left the Atlantic coast and travelled inland. Morocco is suffering a six year drought and the land we saw this morning was very dry. Small Berber villages appeared every so often otherwise the country was pretty much barren.

Our morning break certainly felt like an oasis, located in the middle of nowhere yet set in a green and pretty garden space. It had take-away style food as well as chicken tagines cooked outdoors, lots of garden seating, an excellent play area for children and very clean toilets (5 - 10 dirham entry)

What charmed us were the Berber tent-like relaxing areas. They were all hand made and so beautiful.

Nearer to Marrakech we passes argan plantations and later watermelon and melon plantings.

Housing in one of the larger towns. I would like to be able to photograph some of the rural dwellings but of course I only see them from the coach. They range from shanties to quite large structures made from hand made mud bricks or concrete ones. Very many seem to be not completed nor occupied. More than roof tax I'm thinking.

Nearing Marrakech I saw this wall art on the end of a sporting complex.

Marrakech is known as the pink or red city, for obvious reason. Its appearance is very French with wide boulevards, grand buildings and French style restaurants. The addition of tall palm trees makes a stunning impression.

This is the Royal Opera House, opposite our hotel.

The view from our fourth floor balcony, from which we enjoyed real French-style baguette with emmental cheese for lunch.

In the evening we went to Marrakech's main square Jemaa el - Fnaa. As our info sheet says 'it is a wondrous mix of food, music and entertainment [which gives] a taste of this lively city.' The music was the dominant featurefor us, lots of strings and drum beats ... very tribal. It was just after sunset when we arrrived and it was amazing, but when we came out of the restaurant and it was dark...wow!

Our typical Moroccan dinner at Al Baraka provided food, music and entertainment too. We ate bread and a variety of 'salads' (grated carrot in rose water was a favourite), lamb with cous cous, vegetables and chick peas and two sauces, followed by oranges slices with rose water and dates and mini pancakes.

Home to bed in preparation for a big day of walking tomorrow.

Essaouira - a walking tour

 After a slow breakfast of crepes and other French influence sweet things (excuse? less likely to upset the tum),  we set off on a walking tour of Essaouira with our local guide Rashid. What a delightful guide, so full of knowledge, a great sense of humour and excellent use of the English language.

Formerly the old Portuguese city of Mogador, Essaouira has a port that has played an impotant part in the history of Morocco. First stop was the port. The fishing boats hadn't been out last night so it was quieter than expected but still we got the quintessential fishing boat photos and saw some of the interesting catches. The blue colouring is very much associated with Essaouira, the tradition stemming from the fact that they almost always have blue skies here.

The Bab El-Marsa door was built in 1776 to link the city with the port. The symbolism on the front gives a clear indication that what we are constantly hearing is, and was always the case, Morocco is a country that honours and respects all faiths and people. The shell of St. James the Great, the crescent moons of Islam, the Star of David in the large roses represent  the Muslim, Christian and Jewish people.

In through the gate and on to Moulay El-Hassan square.

The Medina is the Old City and the Medina of Essaouira has been World Heritage listed since 2001. It is considered an exceptional example of an 18th century fortified town.

The Riad Bayt Dakira is a museum and cultural centre that shows the history of the Moroccan Jewish community in Essaouira and  it plays an important role in the preservation of the Moroccan Jewish memory.

At the fortress area, originally called Souira. Several movies and tv shows have been filmed here, mostly known to people younger than us. Game of Thrones was one of them.

On through the Medina ...

This is 9th a musical instrument made from the leather of a camels neck

The caravanserai where the cameliers and their camel team rested in safety with their load. Now a collection of shops and cafes. Note the art class on the right.

It is easy to forget that Morocco is in Africa as in many ways it leans towards Europe. But there are reminders such as these artifacts. We were told that Morocco welcomes people from the sub Sahara region who wish to better their lives and supports their efforts.

Our last stop in the Kasbah was at the Atalier Collective Silversmiths where young  students do a three year course to become master jewellers in filigree, enamel and engraved jewellery. After seeing how the processes happen we were able to view a large collection of artisan pieces. Of course, shopping was a possibility that was taken up by some.

It was good to have a day of walking and the weather was a little warmer. 

We returned to the hotel to find that the housekeeper had included Aldo in her decorative arrangement on the bed.  There he sat amongst the rose petals.

You see some funny things from a balcony. When we arrived yesterday afternoon there was a beautiful pool below up. Last evening it was teeming with workmen covering the pool with a mass of pipe works and timber. This evening we witnessed a very concerning OH&S  raising of beams from the pool covering. It seems they are constructing a marquee over the pool ... and have done it before!