Saturday 11 May 2024

San Quirico - walking to Bagno Vignoni and back

 Another perfect day for being in the country so walking to Bagno Vignoni was our plan. There are several ways to get there, in varying lengths, times and quite different elevation gains, so after much deliberation we opted to follow the Via Francigena route. There were lots of people going both ways, many carrying big packs.


The views were amazing once again, although a little more tree covered than yesterday.





Looking down on Vignoni Alto Castle, 11th century and one of the most well preserved fortified hamlets in Tuscany.  The tiny village and the church are super enticing, so neat, loved and quite unique.




Arriving in Vignoni Alto , the remains of the fortress.


The church of San Biagio (below), Romanesque in style, square in shape ... and playing beautiful Gregorian chants quietly to set the scene.



By now we were over the ridge and on the way down to Bagno Vignoni.




Bagno Vignoni  is now just a hamlet but it has been a stopping place since Roman times when they discovered the hot springs. The Via Francigena passed through here and the thermal baths were appreciated by those walking between Canterbury and Rome. it's special now because its 16th century 'piazza' is a tank  which contains the original source of water that comes from a volcanic aquifer.






Today visitors can enjoy the remains of the Roman hot baths, the Parco dei Mulini which has naturally hot cascades and also the modern day spas and wellness centres. We didn't visit any of these today, having seen them several times before, and preferring to sit and have lunch at one of the many places around the watery piazza.


Fresh pecorino cheese and prosciuto for me, Chianina beef, mozzarella and rocket for Kel. As for Aldo, he seemed more interested in the large cold spina beer.


The temperature had risen to 26 and the toes were feeling the effects of walking down steep hills on gravel roads, so we looked for the easiest way home. We walked a large part of the way beside the S22 which was a bit risky but was not hilly. We did encounter a serious motor bike accident and had to negotiate our way around the traffic snarl held up at the T intersection.


Again today we did about twelve kilometres, the route to Bagno Vignoni giving us lots of hills up and down, and lovely views. It was satisfying to walk another part of the Via Francigena but disappointing not to be able to get a stamp in our Credenziale.





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